Made in Italy

 

Veruschka, HB UK, September 1964
Veruschka, HB UK, September 1964

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Maria Antonelli

This roman fashion house is active between 1930 and the late 60's.

Between 1963-68 he published several clothes for "Linea Italiana". Some with Veruschka appeared in "Harper's Bazaar UK" on September 1964.

Barbara Bach, "Linea Italiana", 1967
Barbara Bach, "Linea Italiana", 1967

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Renato Balestra

The Roberto Balestra fashion house opened its atelier in via Sistina in the early 60's, and is still today active.

Johnny Moncada published several shots for "Linea Italiana" between 1967-68.

'Linea Italiana', prim-est 1967
'Linea Italiana', prim-est 1967

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Ubaldo Baratta

In the second half of the 50's Baratta showed his first collections at Palazzo Pitti. He worked for NASA, creating the astronauts' rest suits, and for Alitalia.

Johnny Moncada published several shots for "Linea Italiana" between 1967-68.

M. Petteni, "Linea Italiana", 1967
M. Petteni, "Linea Italiana", 1967

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Barocco

This roman fashion house was founded by Rocco Muscariello and Monsieur Gillés in 1966. In 1974 Monsieur Gillès left the fashion house and Rocco remained in control and he opened a new atelier in Piazza di Spagna. Now the the fashion house, with the name 'Roccobarocco', presents his collections  during Milan Fashion Week.

Johnny Moncada worked with Barocco between 1967-68 for "Linea Italiana".

 

B. af Klercker, 'Linea It.', 1967-68
B. af Klercker, 'Linea It.', 1967-68

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Biki

Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure, alias Biki, was one of the most famous Italian fashion designers between the 40's and the 60's. Her atelier in Milan was a meeting place for many cultural personalities, such as Maria Callas and many others.

She worked with Johnny Moncada in 1967-1968 for "Linea Italiana".

Joan Whelan, 1961
Joan Whelan, 1961

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Roberto Capucci

The roman fashion designer opened his first atelier in via Sistina in 1951. Only 26 years old, he was considered the best designer of the Italian fashion, particularly appreciated by Christian Dior. He began the big experimentation with the inclusion of decorative, rigid and structural elements, in a mix of rich and poor material, precious fabrics, stones and straw. Roberto Capucci is considered one of the most important designers of the 20th century.

He worked with Johnny Moncada from 1959 to 1964, for 'Novità', 'Harper's Bazaar Fashion Folio', 'The Tatler' and 'L'Officiel'.

'Linea Italiana', prim-est 1965
'Linea Italiana', prim-est 1965

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Carosa

The Princess Giovanna Caracciolo Ginetti founded in Rome, in 1947, the maison Carosa with Barbara Angelini Desalles, which will be active until 1974. Her clientele mainly constituted of Italian and international nobility. The style of the maison is characterized by a sophisticated attention to lines and colors.

Johnny Moncada published several shots for "Linea Italiana" and "Harper's Bazaar Fashio Folio" from 1961 to 1969.

M. Petteni, 'Linea It.', 1967
M. Petteni, 'Linea It.', 1967

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Clara Centinaro

Chiarina Moglia, better known as Clara Centinaro, was a pioneer in Italian fashion. She was among the first to take the "Made in Italy" label all over the world and her ideas were new and innovative. Her last work was the creation of the costumes for the ballet Swan Lake which was staged during the 1990-91 season at the Rome Opera House.

Many photo shoots between 1965-67 were published in "Linea Italiana".

Isa Stoppi, "Linea Italiana", 1967
Isa Stoppi, "Linea Italiana", 1967

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Patrick de Barentzen

The French fashion designer Patrick De Barentzen, active in 50's and 60's, worked with Moncada in 1967-68 for "Linea Italiana".
 

P. Baldieri, 'The Tarler', 1963
P. Baldieri, 'The Tarler', 1963

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Livio De Simone

The Neapolitan designer is considered one of the protagonists of Italian prêt-a-porter. In the 1956 he founded his own company and in the 1958 his first fashion show in Florence at Sala Bianca in Pitti’s Palace. In the 60’s and 70's he was absolute protagonist with the fashion event “Moda Mare Capri" in Italy and abroad. His strong connection with the island of Capri has been his strength, his inspiration.

Johnny Moncada published several shots for "The Tatler" in 1963.

 

'HB UK', october 1964
'HB UK', october 1964

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Enzo

Enzo Sguanci worked first as a cutter in Remo Gandini's tailoring firm and then as designer for Jole Veneziani. In 1957 showed his first collection at Palazzo Pitti. Famous above all for his overcoats and suits characterized by geometric forms, Enzo believed in tailoring and semplicity of line.

He worked with Johnny Moncada in 1964 for 'Harper's Bazaar UK'.

 

Joan Whelan
Joan Whelan

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Alberto Fabiani

Historic brand of Italian fashion from the 50's and 60's. Moncada was a personal friend of the couturier and began working for him early on, using his wife Joan Whelan for various shoots. There is a cover of "Novità" from 1961, various shoots for "Linea Italiana" on 1967-68, and a portrait of Fabiani for "Successo" on July 1971.

A. Tiburzi, "Linea Italiana", 1968
A. Tiburzi, "Linea Italiana", 1968

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Federico Forquet

Nicknamed the Italian Dior, the Neapolitan fashion designer opened his maison in 1961, where he was active for a decade.  Moncada worked with him between 1963 and 1968, published for "Linea Italiana" and "Harper's Bazaar UK". He made a portrait of the designer for "Successo" magazine in 1971.

 

"Linea Italiana", 1967
"Linea Italiana", 1967

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Irene Galitzine

Famous for the pijama palazzo, the Russian princess presents her first collection in 1964. Today the brand is part of Xines srl. Her collaboration with Moncada spans the decade of the 60's and between 1963-68 with at least 20 photo shoots for "Linea Italiana" and "Harper's Bazaar UK" including a cover on November 1964, and in 1971 he published her portrait in "Successo".

B. af Klercker, 'Linea It.', 1967-68
B. af Klercker, 'Linea It.', 1967-68

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Eleanora Garnett

The Estonian fashion designer started working for a dressmaker, picking up pins, and worked her way up. She went to Paris, where she was given a chance to work under the Paris designer Edward Molyneux. The maison had elegant boutiques in both Rome and New York in the 50's.

Johnny Moncada published several shots for "Linea Italiana" in 1967-68.

 

Iris Bianchi, "Linea Italiana", 1968
Iris Bianchi, "Linea Italiana", 1968

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Gattinoni

Famous roman fashion house founded in 1944 by Fernanda Gattinoni, the maison is still active today. Many movie stars wore their clothes including Ingrid Bergman and Audrey Hepburn. Johnny Moncada worked with Gattinoni between 1968-69, all for "Linea Italiana".

Mirella Petteni, Barocco, 1967.jpg
Mirella Petteni, Barocco, 1967.jpg

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Monsieur Gilles

Gilles Stenglé is considered one of the greatest designers of hats. In 1954 he opened his studio in Milan and then, in 1958, opened with de Barentzen his house in Rome. In 1966 Gilles ventures into a new business: he founded the ‘Barocco’ along with Rocco Muscariello, historic brands that will take the name of 'Roccobarocco'. From 1975 to 1979 he was art-director at the fashion house Valentino.

Johnny Moncada published several shots for "Novità", Harper's Bazaar Fashion Folio", "The Tatler" and "Linea Italiana" from 1959 to 1967.

Mirella Petteni, 1968
Mirella Petteni, 1968

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Cesare Guidi

Guidi began his training as a tailor with his brother. He was present at the first fashion show held in the Sala Bianca of Palazzo Pitti in 1952, a venue he remained faithful to even in 1956.

Many photo shoots between 1968-69 were published in "Linea Italiana".

 

Ali McGraw, 'Linea It.', 1968
Ali McGraw, 'Linea It.', 1968

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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La Mendola

La Mendola was started by Americans Mike La Mendola and Jack Savage. By 1967 they had a shop at the top of the Spanish Steps and were holding fashion shows. They had a celebrity clientele that included Elizabeth Taylor and Rita Hayworth. The pair produced dramatic clothing in bright colors, clothing that was very much in the Italian style of the day. The shop lasted at least until 1982.

Johnny Moncada published several shots for "Linea Italiana" in 1967-68

Denise Sarrault, HB UK, March 1965
Denise Sarrault, HB UK, March 1965

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Pino Lancetti

One of the first designers to create a link between art and fashion in Italy. His debut is at Pitti Florence in 1961. Today the maison is still active.

Many photo shoots between 1964-68 were published in "Linea Italiana". In 1971 Moncada published his portrait in "Successo".

Arianna 1960
Arianna 1960

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Achille Maramotti, alias MaxMara, began designing couture clothing in 1947, and officially established the House of Max Mara in 1951.

Maramotti was one of the first to see that the future of fashion lay in the mass production of designer-quality clothes. 

Johnny Moncada worked with MaxMara in 1960 for ‘Arianna’.

MaxMara

'Harper's Bazaar Fashion Folio, 1961
'Harper's Bazaar Fashion Folio, 1961

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Germana Marucelli

The designer of Tuscany in the 40's anticipates the taste of 'New Look' of Christian Dior, with signs and forms that mark a feminine elegant and full. Passionate about art and literature, the seamstress-designer is surrounded by the cultural personalities, such us Giuseppe Ungaretti and Eugenio Montale, Felice Casorati, Gio Ponti and many others. In 1972, Florence took off his latest collection. 

Johnny Moncada worked with Marucelli between in 1961 for "Harper's Bazaar Fashion Folio".

M. Petteni, "Linea Italiana", 1967
M. Petteni, "Linea Italiana", 1967

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Mila Schön

Maria Carmen Nutrizio, better known as Mila Schön, opened her first atelier in 1965 in Milan and still today it is a very elegant fashion house.

All the photo shoots by Moncada are dated 1967 and are published in "Linea Italiana". In 1971 he published her portrait for "Successo".

 

M. Petteni, 'Linea It.', 1967
M. Petteni, 'Linea It.', 1967

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Ognibene - Zendman

Roman Haute Couture House founded in 1956 by Sergio Ognibene and Peter Zendman. The brand has always preferred the simple and clean lines with muted colors. Also of interest are the selection of materials, from plastic to metal.

Many photo shoots were published in "Linea Italiana" in 1967.

Emilio Pucci

The Emilio Pucci maison was founded in 1947 by the Marquis Emilio Pucci, a dashing Florentine aristocrat whose fashion career began unexpectedly when the photo of a revolutionary ski suit he’d designed found its way to the pages of 'Harper’s Bazaar'. He was crowned ‘The Prince of Prints’ by the international fashion press, who where smitten by his exuberantly colored prints and simple, effortless designs, so radical for that time. In 1990’s, Emilio Pucci’s daughter, Laudomia, took the reins of the family buisness and in April 2000 formed an alliance between the Pucci family and the French luxury group LVMH.

Johnny Moncada worked with Pucci in 1963 for "The Tatler" and in 1967.

Emilio Pucci, 1965 circa
Emilio Pucci, 1965 circa

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Sanlorenzo, 1968
Sanlorenzo, 1968

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Sanlorenzo

Sanlorenzo is a Turin-based fashion house founded in 1945 by Teresa Sanlorenzo. In 1968 Teresa designed her first haute couture collection, presenting it in Rome, where Sanlorenzo was the only Turin fashion house to take part.

Johnny Moncada worked with Sanlorenzo in 1968-69 for "Linea Italiana".

 

M. Petteni, 'Linea It.', 1967
M. Petteni, 'Linea It.', 1967

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Fausto Sarli

The Neapolitan fashion designers presented his first collection at the Palazzo Pitti in Florence in 1954 at the age of 29. In 1958 he established his own house in Naples. He opened ateliers in Rome on Via Veneto and Milan. Sarli exports its collections mainly to the United States, Canada, Japan and the Persian Gulf countries. He created dresses for Carla Fracci, Valentina Cortese, Carla Bruni, Valeria Mazza, Mina, Elizabeth Taylor, Monica Bellucci, and many others.

Johnny Moncada worked with Sarli between in 1967-68 for "Linea Italiana".

B. af Klercker,"Linea Italiana" 1967
B. af Klercker,"Linea Italiana" 1967

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Emilio Schubert

Emilio Schubert inaugurates in 1951 and soon becomes the protagonist of the rising scene of Italian fashion. He is considered the fashion designer who has revolutionized the role of the dressmaker, transforming it into the modern designer. Among his assistants was Valentino.

Moncada worked with his clothes shooting between 1961-68 for "Novità" and "Linea Italiana".

Joan Whelan
Joan Whelan

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Simonetta

The aristocratic Simonetta Colonna di Cesarò establishes her maison in 1946 in via Gregoriana in Rome. Her clothes were sold primarily in the USA and were worn by many glamorous ladies including Jacqueline Kennedy and Audrey Hepburn. In 2008 Palazzo Pitti honoured her with an important retrospective exhibition her clothes, photographs and documents. Among the photographs exhibited at Pitti several ones were of Joan Whelan, also published in the exhibition catalog Simonetta. The first lady of Italian fashion, edited by Marsilio, with texts by Vittoria C. Caratozzolo, Judith Clark and Maria Luisa Frisa.

Moncada worked with he mostly in the 50's and has also shot a portrait of her.

B.af Klercker, "Linea Italiana, 1967
B.af Klercker, "Linea Italiana, 1967

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Sorelle Fontana

The atelier of Micol, Zoe and Giovanna Fontana was the first to kick start Italian style worldwide by dressing important Hollywood stars such as Liz Taylor, Grace Kelly and Ava Gardner. Some of these clothes are exhibited in important museums, such as The Metropolitan Museum and Guggenheim of New York.

Moncada worked between 1963-68 publishing for "Linea Italiana" and "Harper's Bazaar UK".

Luisa Spagnoli

 

The fashion house of Luisa Spagnoli was born in 1928 in Perugia, and it is still run by the heirs today.

Moncada works with them for a long period, between 1956-65 creating their fashion catalogues. He worked with a creative team with artists Gastone Novelli and Achille Perilli who worked on the backgrounds for the photos.

 

Iris Bianchi, 1958
Iris Bianchi, 1958

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Alberta Tiburzi, 1968
Alberta Tiburzi, 1968

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Tiziani

 

This Rome-based haute couture establishment was founded in 1963 by the American Evan Richards. He moved to Rome in 1948 and in 1963 decided to open a high fashion house at via Gregoriana. He adopted the name Tiziani, evoking its Italian character by the reference to Titian and the art of the past. Recently, in January 2014, Tiziani returned to prominence with the Tiziani auction Lagerfeld+Liz, organized by the estate of Raf Ravaioli, Evan Richards' companion.

Moncada worked with his clothes shooting between 1967-68 for "Linea Italiana".

 

Veruschka, 'HB UK', Oct. 1963
Veruschka, 'HB UK', Oct. 1963

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Pier Luigi Tricò

Pierluigi Scazzola, alias Tricò, opened his first atelier in Rome in 1961. In 1964 introduces the jacquard in his collections based on original patterns and motifs, becoming the first maker of high-fashion knit. He dressed Jaqueline Kennedy, Ingrid of Denmark, Ira Fürtstenberg, and many other celebrities.

He worked with Johnny Moncada in 1963 for "Harpesr's Bazaar UK", "The Tatler" in 1963-64, and in 1968 for "Linea Italiana".

 

Veruschka, HB UK, September 1964
Veruschka, HB UK, September 1964

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Valentino

Today amongst the most important Italian fashion brands worldwide. It began in 1957 and it evokes style and elegance. He dressed the most glamorous women and reached great popularity with Jacqueline Bouvier wedding dress in 1969 with Aristotele Onassis.

Johnny Moncada worked primarily in 1964 for "Harper's Bazaar UK" with Veruschka.

A. Tiburzi, 1965
A. Tiburzi, 1965

© Johnny Moncada Archive

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Jole Veneziani

Jolanda Veneziani opened his first atelier of furs in 1943. For all the 50’s and 60’s his luxurious Milan atelier in via Montenapoleone was a gathering of high society, thanks to celebrity clients such as Maria Callas, Lucia Bose, Marlene Dieterich and many others.

Johnny Moncada worked with Veneziani between in 1965-66 for "Linea Italiana".

In addition to the above fashion designers, Johnny Moncada worked with DanieleFaraoni, Lea LivoliTitti Brugnoli.